Throughout the 1920s, the term grosgrain seems to have remained true to original definition as a garment fabric.

Factories in America started to produce grosgrain silk in the late 19th century. Throughout the 17th century, grosgrain fabric was used as the fabric body (corpus) for many garments, including waistcoats, jackets, petticoats, breeches, sleeves, jerkins and many other items of clothing, as a cheaper alternative for the lower socio-economic demographic than fine-woven silk or wool. ĭuring the Middle Ages, moire was held in high esteem and was, as currently, used for women's dresses, for capes, and for facings, trimmings, etc. The end result is a peculiar luster which works best when made from a corded fabric like grosgrain. Moire is a waved or watered effect produced especially on grosgrain silk and woolen moreen via engraved rollers and high pressure on carded material. It is from his attire that the naval term grog is derived. In the 1740s, Admiral Edward Vernon, who was known as 'Old Grog' because of the grogram cloak he wore, introduced the rum ration in the British Royal Navy. The term grog, meaning alcohol, is related to the term grogram. Thus gros gram, grogram and grosgrain are all one and the same: a large grain - hence coarse - texture fabric. Grain is derived from Old French graine, itself derived from the Latin grana (plural of granum) – seed or in some contexts texture. The adjective gros means thick or coarse, originally from the Old French gros, itself derived from the Latin grossus. Grogram, originally gros gram (appeared in literature in 1562), is defined as a coarse, loosely woven fabric of silk, silk and mohair, or silk and wool. Grosgrain is both a direct French loan word and a folk corruption of the French word grogram. When a combination of fibers was used, the end result was sometimes given the name grogram, silk mohair, gros de Tours or gros de Naples. Historically, grosgrain was made from wool, silk, or a combination of fibers such as silk and wool or silk and mohair. 'Grosgrain' is commonly used to refer to a heavy, stiff ribbon of silk or nylon woven via taffeta weave using a heavy weft, which results in distinct transverse ribs. The ribbon is very similar to Petersham ribbon in its appearance, but it does not have the ability to follow the curves of a surface or edge the way that the latter does. Grosgrain fabric is most commonly available in black, but grosgrain ribbon comes in a large variety of colors and patterns. Grosgrain has a dull appearance, with little luster in comparison to many fabric weaves, such as satin, often used for ribbons however, it is comparatively very strong. Grosgrain is a plain weave corded fabric, with heavier cords than poplin but lighter than faille, and is known for being a firm, close-woven, fine-corded fabric. Grosgrain ( / ˈ ɡ r oʊ ɡ r eɪ n/ GROH-grayn, also sometimes / ˈ ɡ r ɒ s ɡ r eɪ n/ GROS-grayn) is a type of fabric or ribbon defined by the fact that its weft is heavier than its warp, creating prominent transverse ribs. Grosgrain ribbons in various colors and widths Plain-woven fabric with weft-wise ribbing, often woven in ribbon widths A close-up of a piece of grosgrain ribbon.

Cloak and cape sewing patterns